John long quad anchor. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points and you don't have to break it down for Oct 13, 2023 · Quad Anchors a. Roberts In this episode, Mike goes over how to use a quad anchor, setting up a top down belay, top roping with a quad, and the nuances of clipping into the anchor. Jul 24, 2024 · John Long is a distinguished American rock climber and author, renowned for his contributions to the climbing community. Jul 2, 2013 · Climbing Anchors, 3rd provides the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors to safeguard your life. Learn how to If you want something bomb-proof, go with a 20-30 foot cordlette with a double fisherman's knot in a quad anchor. Otherwise I use the rope. 5m for this). 5% unresolved (Un-Gld'D In rare cases, It is a redundancy that would have saved a few lives for sure. It also can be pre-tied making it an efficient tool. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Modern sewn slings are a better choice. What u/traddad said is pretty much exactly what John Long wrote up in Climbing Anchors. Dive into the wisdom and insights of this literary masterpiece today! Apr 18, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky. This study explored the effects of sliding and fixed length rigging in anchors experiencing failure of an anchor component. com. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. Perfect length when doubled for rap extensions. The masterpoint is wrapped with a coil of tagline for edge padding How to tie The open-ended quad is made from four parallel strands of rope, each about 10 feet That configuration of the cord is a new-ish rigging method, discussed in the new edition of John Long's climbing anchors book, and taught in many intro classes nowadays. Especially, when you can keep it pre rigged. 5 high-tens Looking for books by John Long? See all books authored by John Long, including Climbing Anchors, 2nd (How To Climb Series), and How to Rock Climb!, and more on ThriftBooks. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Apr 2, 2024 · Climbing Anchors Field Guide is the definitive reference manual for concise information on protection and anchor systems, including bolt anchors, rappel anchors, toprope anchors, and anchors for both single-pitch and multi-pitch climbing, all in a condensed and easy to read format. Over time, climbers found the most useful version of the equalette to be the quad, which is effectively a sliding-x variant that features double the normal number of strands of material in the rigging (four Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long’s Climbing Anchors book the “Quad” took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. Clicca qui Per vedere tutte le opzioni per la costruzione di un kit di ancoraggio quad. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. An equalette works well as a self-equalizing 4-point anchor. . I strongly suggest you buy a copy of John Long & Bob Gaines' 2nd Edition of Climbing Anchors. John Long, the author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more than 100 photos. Anchor, Quad Cities Today Jenna Jackson started at KWQC back in July 2017. Quad anchors are mainly used for sport climbing or trad climbing where the Jun 21, 2016 · I second the "buy john longs book" Also buy a cordelette and learn how to tie "cordelette" "webulette" and the "quad" To touch on your knotted slings/alpine draws. The Quad fulfills these requirements of a good anchor: 1) It is automatically equalized (as long as the two anchor points Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The Quad is my preferred TR anchor personally as it's super fast, bomber and you can carry it premade from route to route but it's all personal preference and as long as you are using SERENE/ERNEST you should be fine. Climbing Anchors is an excellent introduction to the broad topics of trad and multi-pitch climbing. Ricorda I find a 240 makes a nice tidy quad when using two piece anchors and is long enough for most applications using 3+ pieces. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Long, John, Gaines, Bob, 2013, Climbing Anchors, Falcon Guides, Guilford Connecticut (p. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. This shows how to setup a quad as described in the Climbing Anchors (John Long and Bob Gaines). Now, ten years later, John Long (born July 21, 1953) is an American rock climber and author. Is the Oct 16, 2010 · This shows how to setup a quad as described in the Climbing Anchors (John Long and Bob Gaines). You can use the quad anchor to set up a top rope. Nov 2, 2017 · Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long’s Climbing Anchors book the “Quad” took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. Pick random objects around your house and build an equalized anchor off of them. 5 high-tens Oct 8, 2025 · Anchors: No extension vs. Reply reply [deleted] • I would recommend building the quad, it’s my go to top rope anchor. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. Ancore a 2 pezzi Come la maggior parte degli aspetti dell'arrampicata, ci sono molti modi per costruire un buon ancoraggio quad. Recently, I have been curious about multi-pitch and trad climbing, so I decided to read Climbing Anchors. 162-171) McKently, John, Parker, Bruce, Smith, Cedric, 2007, A Look at Load-Distributing and Load-Sharing Anchor Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007 Accommodates weirdly spaced bolts. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber’s complete and authoritative source of information on placement and evaluation criteria for nuts and camming devices. John Long’s most popular book is Climbing Anchors. John Long was hardly your average citizen. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. One locker in each leg to the bolts and two lockers as a master point for the rope. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. Sep 1, 2008 · Quad is a really useful tool for top rope in areas where top anchors are bolts with small spacing between them, otherwise, the V angle of load will increase the force on anchor. Called the "Quad" and is supposed to be best compromise between equalization and non-extension. Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long’s Climbing Anchors book the “Quad” took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. [1] Roberts joined Fox News in January 2011 [2] as a national correspondent based in Atlanta. . Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. ) and 2) a 2020 video from Ryan Jenks of HowNOTtoHIGHLINE. /5. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. What’s cool about the q Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. The quad anchor can be a great tool when you are climbing on bolted anchors where the bolts are generally good and you might need some movement in the direction the anchor could get pulled. What are your experiences with the quad in trad climbing? Can you keep it pre rigged? Can you shorten/adjust legs with clove hitches? Is it better to tie the anchor anew at the Belay stance? Pros and cons? Thanks in advance. A quad works well as a self-equalizing 2-point anchor. 5. Two tests are commonly cited in support of the quad: 1) 2006 tests conducted by Jim Ewing of Sterling Rope and author John Long as reported in Climbing Anchors (2nd ed. Author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, Long applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more Dec 1, 2020 · Here is a little description of the quad anchor and why I like to just clip two strands. a. I've done it with 7mm cord, but JL mentions that 5. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. If your crag has a bunch of vertically hanging anchors, my advice is to get 30' of cord and tie a quad. No matter how awful your rigging, bomber pieces = bomber anchor; no matter how great your rigging multiple weak pieces will not result in a bomber anchor. I'd recommend "Climbing Anchors 2nd Ed" by John Long or "Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide" by Craig Luebben. Here's a picture of the open-ended quad used in a rig: The open-ended quad in action. Choose between natural or artificial anchors depending on factors such as location, rock quality, and skill level. Long enough for most gear anchors used single or v-clove style. 2) If your anchor is anything but two side-by-side bolts, Gaines and Long recommend the "equalette" (basically the same configuration as the quad but not doubled - so you have one loop - knot - two strands - knot - one loop). --. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor i Mar 5, 2024 · This completely revised and updated edition, illustrated with 359 color photographs and drawings, brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems most popular among climbers. Here’s how to rig it: Unfurl your cord/sling and double it, without yet tying the overhand knots. Now, ten years later, it has really started to gain widespread popularity for the simplified way it can create ERNEST* anchors, especially when building anchors on two solid pieces of protection (modern bolts Feb 26, 2018 · I strongly suggest you buy a copy of John Long & Bob Gaines' 2nd Edition of Climbing Anchors. John David Roberts (born November 15, 1956) is a Canadian-American television journalist. This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. Included are assessment principles for bolts and a thorough discussion of how to rig and assess toprope, rappel, single-pitch, and multi-pitch anchor systems. The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. About the author John Long is a distinguished American rock climber and author, renowned for his contributions to the climbing community. Di seguito sono riportate alcune idee e alcuni dolci sconti. Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. Mar 15, 2022 · The quadalette aka the "quad" offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. Mar 3, 2025 · At certain stances, a three-point quad anchor makes sense. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. so of course, an obvious, place May 11, 2019 · I'm wondering if there is a good way to make an anchor that self equalizers like the sliding x or quad but using 3 or 4 pieces of pro instead of just two. Just read up and practice all of the options so that whatever the situation you're in you're able to build a good anchor. Enhance your climbing knowledge with the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors with John Long's Climbing Anchors from Globe Pequot Press. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and Enhance your climbing knowledge with the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors with John Long's Climbing Anchors from Globe Pequot Press. It can be done by liking piece 1 and 2 with a quad or sliding x, then linking piece 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 the same way, the using the master point on each of those to make another quad or sliding x. Feb 16, 2019 · Advice question: I’m learning more about the quad anchor. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. Oct 10, 2023 · Outdoor Prolink Pro Evan Watts shares the ins and outs of climbing anchors and how to start your journey getting on the climbing wall. This is useful if you want to top rope two different routes which are immediately next to each other, but share the same anchor. There are three lengths you could use for a quad: 120 cm, 180 cm, and 240 cm. Again, two lockers for the rope, but you can rig up to four anchor points, so you need four lockers there. It is essentially a double loop of cord, with two overhand knots along the way and with a locking carabiner on each end. Long answered all my questions about gear, anchors, and safety systems. [3] He was the Fox News Chief White House Correspondent from 2017 to 2021, covering the first Donald Trump presidency. Born and raised in the Quad Cities, she is thrilled to join her hometown station each morning on Quad Cities Today. The cool thing about this anchor is that I am able to build it on the ground and quickly set it up at the top. : FalconGuide Collection internetarchivebooks; inlibrary; printdisabled Contributor Internet Archive Language English Item Size 614. Ricorda AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. What's the best way to build a self-equalizing 3-point anchor, with all three points receiving equal weight distribution? [John Long promotes a 3-point equalette, but it doesn't seem to be distributed evenly. If you’re new to trad climbing, this book details the necessary skills needed to make safe gear placements and build solid and efficient anchor systems, based on simple guidelines. In keeping with prior research, the results indicate that the extension endemic in sliding anchor systems increases peak forces on the remaining anchor component relative to fixed length systems. As such, I use the 5. Learn all about it here. +1, I'm 80/15 . These will do fine for bolted anchors, but you might need long runners and webbing for tree anchors. " His expertise and passion for the sport have made him a respected voice in climbing literature. 5mm. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. Oct 29, 2023 · If I’m setting up a top rope for the fam/buds to harass the rock for 3 hours, I might think about using a quad or 2 lockers, but then I go with the simple anchor and use my typical setup of 1locker and 1 regular draw anyway. **Parts of this post are missing/non-functional due to my stupidity, sorry!** This led me to think; why don’t I find the smartest, most experienced climber and simply do what they do? So I looked in highly regarded books, referenced anchor research, and read the opinions of experts in the fields of climbing and climbing physics. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. It seems like a good option for two bolt anchors on multi pitches. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. John Long, Bob Gaines-Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition-FalconGuides (2006). equalization - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. What’s cool about the quad? Dec 7, 2023 · To make a quad, you have several options of materials and length. ) attempted to address the concerns of extension and distribution by introducing a new rigging method called the equalette. Dec 26, 2020 · This is Roald Tweet on Rock Island. There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. A few observations: 1) As some of the guys mentioned, the quad is great for side-by side two bolt anchors, be it top roping or multi-pitch. With a wealth of experience on the rock face, he has shared his knowledge through various writings, including his influential book, "Climbing Anchors. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Then clip each two-stranded loop into your two smallest/weakest pieces. You will need 20-30 feet of 6-7mm cordelette 2 locking carabiners for the rope, I use black diamonds RockLock 2 locking carabiners for the hangers, I use the black diamonds Positron This set up costs about $32 Here The AMGA guides are all about the quad anchor now, but it has its deficiencies too. He has been working for the Fox News Channel, as the co-anchor of America Reports. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points If you are new to trad and are worried about your anchors I highly recommend picking up john longs climbing anchors and craig leubbens rock climbing anchors books. John Long and Bob Gaines’ 2006 text Climbing Anchors(2nd ed. are all much better resources if you're looking to get into sport climbing or top roping. Doing it this way eliminates any potential factor 2 falls. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. IIRC, that's a specific recommendation that John Long makes in his book on building anchors, due to elasticity. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points 2 comments Like Comment Share Most relevant Phil Dlm Here's what John Long days about the equalette (double or quad) 8y Climb Max Mountaineering replied · 1 Reply Discover the most memorable quotes from Climbing Anchors by John Long , complete with page numbers for easy reference. While that's possible, it uses at least 6 After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, Then I finally just decide that I'm partial to using a quad anchor where I just clove hitch off of a 'biner on the master point (like he does in that video) and go from there. 5M Jan 17, 2025 · Present and past members of the Quad-City area media who have come and gone over the years. It's the mountaineering bible but YouTube videos, VDiff climbing books, John Long's climbing anchors etc. It took him two hours to murder Colonel George Davenport, two months and twenty-three days to be tracked down and captured, two days to be tried in Rock Island District Court, one hour to be convicted of murder by a jury The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. Apr 13, 2020 · Want to learn how to build climbing anchors? This introduction covers important concepts such as SERENE-SA to get you started in the right direction. This new edition of Climbing John Long has 52 books on Goodreads with 4816 ratings. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't Jun 8, 2016 · Learn how to build a quad anchor with AMGA Guide Instructor Jeff Ward. Questi kit NON sono progettati per il lavoro di salvataggio industriale o professionale. k. pdf When we first wrote Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors, our aim was to try and standardize the entire subject in Two tests are commonly cited in support of the quad: 1) 2006 tests conducted by Jim Ewing of Sterling Rope and author John Long as reported in Climbing Anchors (2nd ed. Welcome to the SIET Blog! Climbing Anchors: Evidence-Based Practices, Myths, and Assessment Tools This blog post is intended to supplement our Three-Piece Anchors video, in which we demonstrate three different three-piece anchor configurations: what we call the “W,” the “V-Clove,” and the “Quad. Oct 13, 2023 · Quad Anchors a. His stories have been translated into many languages. The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. 120 cm: too short, unless the anchors are John Long argues that everyone should adopt the mnemonic SRENE for anchor building to keep a common terminology between climbers. Author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, Long applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Private guiding sessions offer personalized instruction to hone anchor building skills in diverse climbing locations. Jun 16, 2021 · Favorite Climbing anchors by Long, John, 1953- Publication date 2006 Topics Rock climbing -- Equipment and supplies, Rock climbing -- Safety measures Publisher Guilford, Conn. Jun 8, 2019 · This idea also owes something to the quad anchor described in John Long’s climbing anchors book. As the test results are presented in English, they tend to be more commonly known among climbers in the United States. Oct 1, 2023 · Key Takeaways Master the art of anchor building for increased safety by understanding different types of anchors and equalizing them properly. A Quad, basically, is a pre-built system of some cord and a few biners that will help you address many of the points mentioned above in a timely manner. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. For $16, it's the best thing out there. Jun 7, 2018 · John Wilder wrote · 11 hours ago · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530In all honesty, I've never seen any point to using a quad since it does nothing more than a regular cordlette style anchor and requires more work to setup. French, German and Spanish climbers may find this doesn’t fit well for them. Originally introduced in the 2006 version of John Long's Climbing Anchors book the "Quad" took a few years to start being adapted by both guides and recreational climbers alike. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. Nov 22, 2021 · Pick up a good book like Climbing Anchors (John Long and Bob Gaines) and go through it cover to cover. ” These are just a few ways to build three-piece anchors, … read more » If you're new to this and like buying stuff, a book on anchors might be a good investment. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. ae27utqk rc3o ub5lu qkfe57qjom vtd9zt iw zvo yyexm xpneg9s rw