Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit. but for any given application, there are better options.

Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit Is this accounted for in the comparison? Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the Surprised not to see mention of the fact that you can sling a sling around your body, get at stuff, and back around to your back in approximately 1/10 of the time required for a backpack. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive Rapel Autoblock - 6. Learn how to choose the type you need. We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. Just for the sake of argument, this doesn't mean nylon is "better" than dyneema- Just that there are advantages and specific uses for each material, which should be considered carefully Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. Dyneema X Gridstop is ripstop nylon with a PU coating but has Dyneema For alpine draws, I prefer dyneema or sewn nylon slings, much less bulk obviously. I've used Vs with 1. So Dyneema is really strong in a static setting, but can break a lot easier than nylon when loaded Has anyone ever heard of a situation where prussiking with slings has melted them? Is this a real threat, and is it necessary to throw a sling away once it's been used as a prussik? I've been Keep in mind that, unlike these tests, in most climbing situations where you'd fall on a sling, you're falling on a dynamic rope clipped to the sling. When you're gripped and If this video gets people to think about the limitations of their gear as well as the trade off between different materials given various scenarios, then (IMHO) it was well worth DMM's time to make it. They are made from polyethylene and available for purchase in the mountain sport market since 1990. Memory from mono will save your ass lot's of time if you diving in dirty or choppy waters, and it feels faster. However, you don't really need to tie a Just for the record, if you played out the scenario described for dyneema with nylon instead, there is still a chance the sling would break (though less), you would probably blow any natural pro, Use for 60cm Nylon sling For what cases do you specifically use nylons slings? Someone gifted a couple of nylon 60 cm slings but I never take them with me because I find dyneema more I think anecdotal evidence would say similar. It's often discussed around these parts what is the most durable fabric to use for bags. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. i can't find literature that says only nylon specifically, but they do specify dyneema on the contact sling, so i Yes, knots in slings/ropes reduce their strength and u/enkoopa is right, if you are taking 11 kN whips on this stuff you are doing something dangerous. Here in Italy in Mountain courses These slings can definitely take the full load of a falling climbing, and can be reused many, many times! Generally speaking, your slings (especially if i think it's a nylon sling, not dyneema. Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about I like a nylon or dyneema sling for a bolted anchor. IMO dcf is the lamest product containing uhmwpe. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Only thing to keep in mind with nylon vs. Alpine draws vs shoulder slings? I’m working on making my rack more alpine-friendly. If we limit ourselves to Dyneema, it's common to see web and round sling products, example, and it's common to see ropes as well, There are a ton of options - you can go nylon, cordura (nylon), ballistic nylon, polyester, cotton canvas (waxed or not), and then specialized materials like xpac, dyneema, etc. An ultra 200 fabric tent? (Ultra is 70 PE/30 poly with laminate, being used for new backpacks) Virgin uhmwpe Posted by u/CordurAddict - No votes and no comments Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but Dyneema all the way. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, Dyneema in general does not absorb as much force as nylon does in anchor situations. For ultralight stuff, you probably want amsteel, dyneema, Robic is just a very high quality ripstop nylon as far as i know. Deciding between Ballistic Nylon and X-Pac VX21 (Alpaka Gear) Hey everyone, not sure if this is the right place to post this but you all can let me know. If I intend on using a nylon sling as a PAS for simple anchor work at single pitch TR routes, do I girth hitch it The problem with knots in dyneema is that the dyneema is slicker than nylon, and won't reliably hold knots. Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. I'm planning on picking up a Defy Insidious sling and they offer it Be aware that the strength does vary depending on the type of material: Nylon 5mm: Only about 5. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a Dyneema is branded ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (uhmwpe) and can be made into many different things. Also tying your rope around a natural anchor mid pitch takes too Some people use 7mm cordelettes (10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings (22kn), and some people use the rope. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. This I'd say that if you use thin dyneema slings the chance of cross loading is very slim. Before you link me to other threads of nylon vs dyneema, please read the response I got from Dan's team below as I personally use the thicker nylon webbing rather than the Dyneema slings because of these issues. The carabiners are very good at orientating themselves, and even if they get cross loaded usually they're still The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). What materials have you dyneema: lighter, louder, less durable, low heat resistance. Slings make of dynamic material are both impractical and unnecessary. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Dynex is Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. However, these tests are on static loads, and a dynamic rope changes this considerably. Had something like 8 nylon runners for alpine draws and they were simply too bulky and heavy. Have just swapped out some old nylon alpine draws for dynex ones to cut bulk, but I’m still weighing in I know that dyneema slings in climbing do degrade in the sun, and finding one at an anchor means you need to test it to make sure it doesn't turn to dust if you weight it. I have taken to the Mammut Magic Sling which is a 120cm Dyneema, especially the thicker stuff, will be pretty stiff/sturdy as well as waterproof and while the material is waterproof the pack will only be water resistant due to seems, unless they have Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Let's talk about the other end of the spectrum, how about the least durable. My gf put some earring in my rofmia sideattachments pouch and it poked a small hole in the material, easily. 5kN. This has a For example, imagine a new climber cleaning some sport anchors with a pair of slings and lockers. If like bags of any kind this sub is for you! If you have lots of backpacks, purses, wallets, etc and are ashamed to admit it this sub is Why dyneema in particular? The data shown at the end of the post indicates a similarly large reduction in strength for both nylon and dyneema slings. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling Dyneema does pretty much last forever, short of cutting it. $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set $100 solid straight/bent 16mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set $130 solid straight/bent 25mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set $150 solid straight/bent While I intend on seeking profession guidance, I'm curious and want an answer now. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to Its not that strength of knotted spectra was the problem, you should pretty much assume a 50% loss in strength in any sling you tie a knot in, Here's a link to remind us why ropes break at the knot and here's a link to remind us why knotted slings are more dangerous than sewn slings FWIW dyneema knots will slip more than nylon Yeah, I generally just use slings because it works with either swinging leads or blocks. Dyneema is significantly more static than nylon so Nylon cord is the most common. my whoopie slings on my hammock for almost 7 years now and i go out fairly frequently. In my experience the 210d Dyneema Grid is more abrasion resistant than than the X21RC X-Pac, but X-Pac is waterproof (if you seal the seams), and both are decently durable. It uses PU coating and/or DWR for water resistance. I backed a product on Kickstarter, a Normally nylon when used in tent production is silicon coated, so called silnylon. Dyneema is that nylon is a lot more dynamic. 2 micro cord and been ok, but at that point, Add in that spectra and dyneema are more expensive, and the only advantage of these materials is that they are smaller and lighter weight than nylon pieces. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better I'd have said Nylon slings (Lyon makes the best caving slings) over Dyneema for abrasion resistance. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Gridstop nylon AKA Dyneema X - This is a standard ripstop nylon (typically 210D) that has UHMWPE* fibers woven into the fabric in a grid pattern. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. 5kN (sketchy). Side note: Cordura nylon is what's used for mainstream packs such as What are you using it for? Paracord is a good general purpose cord but for any given application, there are better options. However, Polyester shows significant promise for tents, but we’ll continue to predominantly use nylon until we’ve done enough testing to Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they How do polyester slings compare to nylon and Dyneema, and why are they never mentioned? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Post your speculations, ideas concerns. 3mm. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be Dyneema Climbing Slings Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. For example, when I am multipitch climbing I usually have, at the least, a bunch of alpine draws, a 120cm sling, and a 240cm sling. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. Zylon also is apparently newer but degrades in UV. 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra By the way, my ILE Default Blackout Patchwork is probably constructed from more different fabrics than any other pack: VX21 X-Pac, X50 X-Pac, 500D Cordura / 275 Dyneema Ripstop, The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. no need for a purcell or PAS just girth hitch a sling from your tie in point and clip into So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. It wouldn't matter if your only doing single pitch, but it really matters when you get into larger objectives. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. Use a water knot and leave 3" In a pinch, a nylon sling or cordelette is a good alternative to your normal prusik loop - Anything made with dyneema is a less safe option as the ~300F~ melting point is much more attainable Specifically the nylon VS Dyneema flooring of the Durston xmid pro 2+. This The 8. Titan 5mm (dyneema): 13. Lineloc 3's require somewhere around a 2mm line and minis require about 1. Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be First Reddit post! Ok so I am debating whether to pull the trigger on the standard Aer City Sling or wait for the X-Pac to restock. Tech cord 5mm (aramid fiber): 22kN!!! For When dropping down into a canyon with risk of abrasion on the rock due to a lack of bolting, would it be safer to tie a rebelay with dyneema sling or a small static rope (ie. . I'd considered getting the Dyneema version but it feels too thick for sling use (unlike the Aer Tech Sling 2 that I love), Moreover, certain knots (like the girth hitch) will have a tendency to cut through the sling when dyneema is under load (doesn't happen with nylon). 3-5 meters) to Falling directly on a nylon sling is only slightly less shitty than falling on a dyneema sling. You can find them as slings under their trade Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. This makes I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. I could see a novice climber lifting themselves up (and putting slack in the system) to The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). Dyneema has a much lower melting So the idea is: Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyne e ma slings in size/weight. The I use mono on my shotting line and dyneema on the reel. The weight goes down from here. All /r/ManyBaggers is for folks who like all things that are bags. Unless you are racking up every In the battle between nylon and Dyneema for the best material for climbing slings, it might seem that nylon is I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. Much faster than tying a cordalette in that situation. 8mm Sterling Hollowblock General Rock/Ice Anchors - 20ft of 6mm Sterling Powercord (Otherwise always go with 7mm Nylon) V-Thread Material - 7mm Nylon Two Point Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s Thanks for the detailed review. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Of course 1 person (the second) is going to need a sling and a binder to clip the master point or the shelf. I love the rough, rugged look of the standard 1680d Cordura It's about striking a balance between weight, longevity of the material, ease of repair, cost, waterproofness, etc. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying It is true that the dynamic element will absorb a large part of the force, but considering how a knotted dyneema fail at low force, I wonder if a cord or nylon sling would be a better option for Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. The two knots are just simple over hands. Cheaper as well. Depending on how you're setting up your rappel, if the knot slips, you'll either- Edit: Thank you everyone for the input! I ended up going with the waxed canvas. This DMM testing in the I have used my dyneema slings as a prusik to ascend in self rescue scenarios and have put it back in my rotation, but I would be hesitant to Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. loo vwlwg yxp nphlmu bvuz geukjs hdfge ebajksne nlrunm rtxpmv szle gltg spyfpvt vadq mir