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Sport climbing vs bouldering shoes reddit. A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community.


  • Sport climbing vs bouldering shoes reddit. Can I do top rope in my bouldering shoes, or is that dangerous? However, I have special socks for climbing that are very thin and made from synthetic material (some people also use ballerina socks or runner's socks). Nov 7, 2023 · This comprehensive guide will demystify three of the most popular and distinct climbing disciplines: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, and Traditional (Trad) Climbing. MembersOnline • extracrispy7 ADMIN MOD I've been bouldering for years. Jul 11, 2022 · Here’s how it works. There is no need for bigger shoes with these, in fact it's sometimes easier to get into the shoe because there is less friction (similar to how some people use plastic to get into new shoes). I am tired of wearing the not so great shoes that the gym gives you and I am buying a pair of climbing shoes for indoor and outdoor bouldering. I often see: this shoe is soft and therefore very good at bouldering, sports climbing; smearing and edging. The Gomis are the best boulder/comp shoe that I have tried (yet to try the dragos so that might change). I'm sure having more shoes can be nice, but definitely not required. A few exceptions exist, however But even the cheapest climbing shoes are miles better than rentals. Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. I generally wear a size 11 street shoe I spend most of my time sport climbing indoor, maybe around a 70/30 split of the time, where I engage in bouldering more often than top/lead climbing. My go to shoe is the La Sportiva Cobra. I would skip the mythos. What my greater point was that, because the sport climbing final score is a product of the individual event scores, it means the number of competitors (20 in qualifying vs 7 in final) naturally influences the final standing. Tldr; Do I need a soft or stiff shoe as lighter climber who climbs 70% vert/slab climbing with like 30% overhang mostly in bouldering? Thanks so much in I've been using shoes widely considered a multi-pitch trad shoe for everything for years. 5-2 from street, good amount of stretch for the leather version) sportiva theory (1-2 sizes down), accommodates very easily cause of how soft they are) sportiva testarossa (-1 size) sportiva genius (-1) scarpa mago (pre ‘22 redesign, -1 size) evolv phantom lv (street size) tried on and seemed to fit well at a level of tightness I expect to work well We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. For real techy bouldering the benefits of extra sense/fingertip power outweighs those of gloves, as there are no gloves I'm aware of with climbing-shoe-rubber fingertips or whatnot. Not that good for hooks, but a nice start. Outdoor climbing is more important to me, and is more stylistically varied, than indoor climbing, so I have a few pairs of shoes for different disciplines outdoors (crack, long multipitch, sport), plus a cheap pair of beater shoes for indoor climbing. Great shoes for bouldering. See full list on outdoorgearlab. If I want a soft shoe, I'll either get the Solutions or Solutions Comp if I want an even softer shoe. Currently I am in Moccasyms (mediocre fit) indoors and Miura VS (good fit) outdoors. If you’re going to be doing more outdoor trad/sport climbing, go with a comfortable harder shoe such as the Scarpa Vapor or VS, if you’re going to be doing primarily indoor try the Scarpa VSR or Miura. In this article, we’ll define bouldering vs. Just looking for general recommendations thanks. I go climbing indoors maybe once a month, so I have some experience but I'm far from proficient. Need shoes, been doing a good amount of bouldering and indoor climbing. What specific shoe models has these qualities? I feel like retailers and the manufacturers themselves tend to write that every shoe they make is good for everything. That being said, it’s always nice to have two pairs of shoes. Skwamas are also versatile shoes that I like a lot for bouldering. So, yes, you will likely improve if you add bouldering to your session. We present the main differences between bouldering vs rock climbing to help you choose your gateway into the wonderful world of climbing (Image credit: Getty Images) If you’ve been dreaming about unleashing your inner Spider-Man, you might be wondering where to start when it comes to types of rock climbing. Find one that fits you the best, pretty much anything is an improvement over the very entry level. Allow me to share some of the latest and greatest bouldering shoes, combined with a few time-tested classics, that will rock your world. Most people prefer soft downturned toes on shoes for indoor overhangs. Ive been climbing in Evolv Kronos and while they are great, im wanting something more for top rope, for the small footholds and overhang/slight overhang. No other shoes at all. 10 Asym's. Jun 12, 2025 · We put 23 pairs of climbing shoes to the test on boulder problems, sport climbs, and traditional routes. Cruxes require technique, strength, and thoughtful sequences. You've been climbing for a few months, don't concern yourself with the model of shoe. Climbing shoes fit different people's feet wildly different between brands and shoe models. They feel really well balanced between soft and stiff. Normal climbing shoes without a rubber are not made for toehooking and will be short lived if you do that, depending on your level of experience and style of bouldering. Just wondering what the best shoes to get are. Bouldering is short, intense climbing. Though even after reading CF's climbing shoes guide, I was still lost on one thing. Top contenders right now from looking around the web seem to be Dragos, Instinct VS, Solution Comps, Otakis, and Hiangle Pros, but I'm open to being sold on something else. It’s also easier for me to smear and do moves like heel and toe hooks. Are aggressive downturned shoes mandatory for hard bouldering? In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. Aggressive/downturned/cambered shoes have a curve to them that naturally puts your foot in a pulling position. Velcro or Lace? I know that climbing shoes are usually a discouraged topic here, which I understand. This is because im softer shoes the structure and the sustain of the shoe is given for the majority by the feet constricted in it, while on stiffer models the sustain is given by the feet but also by the shoe rigidity. To get through the multiple sections, there are techniques that aren't as applicable to bouldering - knowing when to go slow or fast through a section, knowing how/when/where to rest, working through A beginner pair of climbing shoes will run you about $100 and a high quality pair will be around $200. Now i have to buy new shoes since my first shoes are pretty run down. This would the Shaman, Solution, Instinct, Oasi, hiangle, etc. I just got a membership to a local bouldering gym, and I'm looking to get a pair of shoes. Special climbing shoes grip the rock well for control. I climb 5. Seems most people like other shoes for indoor bouldering better. That said, for indoor, especially bouldering the softer the rubber generally the better, so xsgrip 2 from La Sportiva/scarpa. What do you mean by all rounders? It seems that the definition is changing. I used to buy them a half size down, but recently, I've been using my street shoe sized pair. Jan 11, 2022 · But for the types of hard, technical climbing that are most popular indoors and out (steep sport routes and overhung to vertical bouldering problems), this model has broad support as the best rock climbing shoes available. I use them bouldering, top-roping, sport lead, trad, indoor, outdoor, every kind of rock, every temperature. For A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Jun 21, 2025 · Rock climbing is a broad category of sports that involve using your hands and feet to ascend a wall or rock face, and often requires safety equipment like ropes and anchors. My girlfriend got Scarpa Veloces and they are insanely sticky and excellent at pretty much any terrain (compared to rentals). Thanks in advance for any recommendations or suggestions! TLDR: I exclusively indoor boulder. If you want improved smearing a softer shoe will help with that, something like the scarpa veloce is moderately downturned and very soft. Outdoor climbing is a different beast where for each type of climb you may have a different shoe, but what about for those long days in the gym? What shoe do you use/recommend that manages to perform on boulder problems and walls alike yet doesn't get uncomfortable for those longer days of nonstop climbing? The shoes you listed are all really different, some pretty soft and others quite stiff. What type of climbing do you do and how does your shoes perform? How do they compare to other Sportiva products and other brands? Any issues? Sportiva shoes fit me way better than any other brand and I am hunting for some new shoes, both for the gym and outdoors. Note that “bouldering” shoes might be used as “lead” shoes, and vice versa; in reality, most high-performance shoes will excel at both disciplines. I am having a hard time deciding between the solutions or the instinct vs. But on some outdoor climbs/boulders I’ve used my softest shoes, and sometimes a stiff pair is nice in the gym! When standing on a smear I tend to use soft shoes, when standing on edges I use What is so good about La Sportiva solutions? Basically, all the pros seem to be wearing them for sport climbing or bouldering, and all the good guys at the gym seem to have them, so I'm curious (as a relative beginner) as to what makes them better than other shoes? Don't fret, I'm not planning on buying any just yet, just curious. Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes 1. I've been bouldering for about half a year and want to try top rope. I usually get stuck around V4. What I love most about the Skwama is that it’s an awesomely versatile shoe that always delivers a strong performance regardless of the climbing terrain and styles (although Looking for a great shoe for indoor rope climbing and for bouldering as well and came across the La Sportiva Theory and Solution, which is better? Or should I look for a different shoe entirely. La Sportiva Tarantula Boulder? Have been looking at a first climbing shoe to get as a beginner (V4), to progress in and wondering if the LS Tarantula Boulder shoes are any good in the bouldering gym? Apr 29, 2024 · Master the ascent as we explore two of the most popular forms of climbing and explain the various differences between bouldering and sport climbing. I was previously recommended by friends to perhaps invest in a more intermediate climbing shoe as my bouldering problems often involve some overhang. Approach shoes for trad descents are great as they are generally light and you are able to carry them with relative ease in comparison to hiking shoes. Unfortunately for beginners, the explosive growth of rock climbing has also led to Its honestly preference based. 3 days ago · And of course you can use your sport climbing shoes for trad climbing or as your main pair of bouldering shoes. I've gone in to my local REI to try on some shoes, but they didn't offer many models and have enough sizes to really nail something down. I am a beginner and I couldn’t find any info anywhere. It used to mean multi-pitch, single-pitch, trad, sport, bouldering, gym, etc. The past 6 pairs of climbing shoes I've purchased has been the Instinct V or VSs. On steeper walls, this helps set up your toes to not just push downward on holds, but Maybe you can look at Specific shoe model choice for specific types of climbing (overhang, indoor, outdoor, sport vs trad vs bouldering), and try to find a correlation. Apr 16, 2025 · Related: Our Favorite Bouldering Shoes (Updated 2023) II. Comparing them is like trying to compare BMX biking and touring the country on a road bike. It makes it easy to do precise footwork on smaller holds. 10b-c, while projecting 5. A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Mega soft perfect for toe hooking and still good at heel hooking, and it isn’t so uncomfortable that I can’t sport climb or warm up in them (even though I don’t). MembersOnline • thrillhousecycling ADMIN MOD Very, very few experienced climbers would chose the Miuras for overhanging sport and bouldering. Why am I better at Lead than I'm at Bouldering? Alright, so I'm a little confused. Judging from your post, you want your next shoes to be all-around bouldering shoes (as opposed to comp-style bouldering shoes). Bouldering was seen as simply training for rock climbing. It's one of the least expensive shoes on the market but it's great, just a slipper, doesn't hurt too much (or not at all even), it's a great allrounder - good for slabs and frictiony footwork but also overhangs. [2] Rock climbing tends to require more stamina and works the legs, while bouldering Recently got my first climbing shoes and went for LS Zenits. Make sure you go to an actual shop and try as many pairs on as you can without worrying too much about what size they are as long as it's around your normal street shoe size and feels snug around your entire foot. Am about to buy a pair of saltic avax bouldering shoes and was wondering if they are ok for general rock climbing as well. It's been a good experience, they are really comfortable and versatile for both climbing and short rock routes. My local gym is fairly small so I spent most of my time bouldering. 11a’s. My main activities are shorter (sub 10k distance) runs and indoor bouldering. Another downside I can think of is that they smell god awful, even for climbing shoes. Looking for some good climbing shoe brands and what the best shoes to buy from those brands are/ I normally wear 10 1/2 and 11s in shoe size Stiff vs. Does any one have any advice? This sub tends to have more people with a focus on bouldering, the average bouldering grade tends to be a bit high for the sport grade led (compared to crux of sport route). Will I as I develop? What are the pros and cons of each? 2. The website shows that the boulder ones have a rubber on the top of the toebox, which makes the shoe more resistant to toehooks. The only people who really get to pick a bicycle colour are kids. In top rope im doing consistent 5. I also do some calisthenic strength training with rings and occasional yoga (I would like to do more). Mixed climbing is done in gloves, easier alpine trad in the winter may be done in gloves, crack climbing usually involves at least a partial glove or tape glove. The Sqwama have the best fitting heel I've ever tried and a ton of rubber for toe hooking--once they stretched out they fit so perfectly I never want to wear anything else. Sport crags whatever doesn't really matter. Pretty much the only shoe that fit semi-comfortably, due to my wide, flat Hobbit-esque feet. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. One of the first items of gear a neophyte usually purchases is a pair of beginner climbing shoes. Miura VS are good all around shoes and will work great for both your sport climbing and bouldering. I haven't noticed any drop in performance though, and I expect to use them for another 2-3 months before thinking about resoling. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Nov 10, 2023 · There's no shortage of awesome bouldering shoes in 2023. As for what shoe to buy, specifically, it'll help if you tell us what sort of routes will you be climbing, on what rock, will it be bouldering, sport or trad, and whether your feet are wide or narrow at the ball of the foot and at the heel, bulky or kinda flat, and which of your toes is longest :) As far as what I climb, I do both bouldering and top rope/sport climbing, but I care a lot more about my performance on top rope/sport climbing than I do bouldering. In general one could say that softer shoes tend to perform better inside compared to a stiffer pair, due to the style of the climbs. So just do some research, and I'm sure you'll find Scarpa Instinct, La Sportiva Solutions, and other similar shoes from other brands will probably be recommended. Instincts are a good allrounder. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. Sportiva skwama leather (sized down 1. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. they are extremely expensive for what they are. If you can, find a store near you (climbing gyms will often sell shoes, if you're in America there's probably an rei near you) and try on different brands, since each will fit differently (different toeboxes, different heels, etc). That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. Read on for our 2025 picks. Just sport climb more often and make sure you're putting yourself on routes that will get you 30 or more hand moves. I've been bouldering over a year now and have well and truly caught the bug. If I decide to go with a stiff shoe, I think I'm going to get the La Sportiva Miuras VS. Each brand has a signature performance shoe designed for exactly what you’re looking for. It has all the tools you need to level up your climbing ability. [1] Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that involves lower walls and more technical movements, and is done without ropes or harnesses. Watch for rock climbing / bouldering? I am looking to get a lower end Garmin watch after years of dissatisfaction with multiple fitbit models. . Apr 10, 2022 · With the rise of bouldering gyms worldwide, especially in big cities, it’s essential to look at what bouldering exactly is and how it relates to rock climbing. My rock climbing teachers recommended me the sportiva kubo. Since you plan to climb only indoor you could even consider trying something softer (especially if you are a lighter climber). I myself have been climbing for a bit more than half a year and have been using La sportiva Zenits which has been enough for me (climbing up to V5, projecting V6), although I do not have anything really to compare to so would love some input on what to recommend! To my mind climbing shoes are like road bicycles, you get whatever colour the manufacturer uses that year. What Is Bouldering? Both are great performance shoes, at the cost of some level of durability. That really helps for standing on large volumes. Solution comps are what I use. One thing I've always wondered, what's the "gold standard" for higher end bouldering when it comes to shoes? I've always liked the softies because I can feel a lot more. If your gyms walls are too low, or you only have access to bouldering wall, just do repeats until you reach your desired number of moves. there is one thing i just can't seem to get the beta for. I’m not saying that climbing shoes should be uncomfortable, per se, but I do believe that buying for comfort first isn’t wise. Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. Edit: Talked to a dude at the gym, tried on several different pairs of shoes before finally getting a pair of 5. They can be a great shoe, but there are many better options for that kind of climbing. The responses you'll get may reflect that, if someone boulders V8 problems and is only leading 12- sport of course they will answer that the sport seems less injurious. Ok, super simplistic, but something that I have to remind myself about when the season changes from sport to bouldering and vice versa is this: Bouldering is all about pulling as hard as possible. I plan on ordering a bunch of shoes and then trying them on at home to figure out what fits me. As skiiers like to say, run what you brung. We'll explore their core principles, essential gear, safety considerations, and the unique experiences they offer, providing a clear understanding of what sets each vertical pursuit apart. rock climbing and discuss the implications in terms of difficulty, training safety, and equipment. my shoe lineup is: aggressive-ish sport/bouldering shoe (like miuras), slabby smearing shoe (mythos would work but there are much cheaper options, I use 5. How to keep my bouldering shoes from absolutely reeking? Any advice and product recommendations are welcomed. Looking for some recommendations for some stiffer shoes as starting to do more outdoor bouldering and sport climbing and finding Dragos to be too soft for me for that I also loved my Skwamas again in LV but just came to terms they are far too wide for my foot. Aug 5, 2024 · Here is a breakdown of 12 climbing shoes we’ll be seeing at the Olympics, by event, and why they’re a popular choice. I’ve gone through dozens of shoes doing everything A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. These were our favorites. Soft shoes for high end bouldering? I consider myself a fairly high level boulderer. 10d and 5. The difference between sport and bouldering isn’t that big as they are both performance oriented and eventually you’ll be bouldering on a rope. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when There are no real differences between indoor and outdoor shoes. 12 Bouldering focuses on power and technique, and allows you to repeat the same movements easily (from the ground, rather than climbing to a crux half way up a route). Route climbing requires you to get through multiple cruxes of varying difficulty. I hate that rope climbing is called “rock climbing” while bouldering is separate, but that’s how it was pre-1980’s. I'm still kinda new to climbing, started about a year ago with bouldering, since 4 months im really into climbing and recently i started wit outdoor climbing. Nov 11, 2023 · Best For: Diverse bouldering and sport I personally think that the La Sportiva Skwama is one of the best climbing shoes for intermediate climbers right now. V9 usually takes a few tries, i can knock out most 10s in a session or two. Thick crash pads underneath catch falls safely. Carrotfueled's guide to climbing shoes (lightly edited by tinyOnion & soupyhands): Shoe Terms Downturned the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. the Sportiva Sqwama are my go to for bouldering, and the Futura for sport climbing. What I am wondering, is when previous climbing experience becomes necessary, and is it possible to learn alpine rock climbing (with mountaineering boots and crampons rather than climbing shoes) without learning trad climbing? The reason I ask is because I do not have a lot of money to spend. They have broken in now and are pretty comfortable but one thing I would note is that different shoes will feel good for different things. Is there anything i have to consider since I plan to do alot of outdoor climbing in the future? Nov 4, 2024 · Climbers use different gear depending on if they go bouldering or traditional climbing. Bouldering keeps things simple, with just shoes and mats needed. Chill crack climbing I leave the TC pros in the closet, Bouldering unless I need to do hard heel hooks or overhangs I am using moccs, sport and multi pitch I am in the moccs. With just those two items, someone can start bouldering right away without much preparation. Comfort is not king Fitting your climbing shoes for comfort is like buying a car because you like the driver’s seat. Either way, I agree. It’s up to you if you want one pair for everything you do or if you want special kicks for every objective you have. The only reason where I ever actually felt a difference was leading 11d+ after a really good sweat. God damn it was so much fun. Laces or Velcro? I'm just a beginner, but I've climbed both and haven't noticed any difference in feel. Note: If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. Rope climbing is long, steady climbing at a much "lower" V grade equivalent that take insane amounts of endurance and strategy to get through in one shot. I climb everything up to V7/V8 with them, outside and inside. Reddit's rock climbing training community. That said, what you’re going to use the shoe for is the other deciding factor. Why can't they focus the things the shoes excel at, and leave out the Looking for a shoe I can purchase online from REI, just because of their fantastic return policy. Sport climbing is all about pulling as little as absolutely necessary to do the move. Here's everything you need to know about outdoor climbing shoes. 11 trad, 5. I'm looking at the LS Finale, the BD Momentum, and the LS Tarantula/tarantulace. I've been climbing for about 2-3 years and in the last year I really fell in love with the sport and started climbing twice a week. I'm a 170lb guy, been bouldering and sport climbing indoors for In comparison to the first shoes I ever bought (some sort of Evo brand shoe), these newer shoes helped my climbing because they fit my feet really well. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. Jul 29, 2022 · The growing popularity of outdoor recreation and adventure sports, along with a rapid increase in indoor climbing facilities over the past decade, means the number of new entrants to rock climbing is ever expanding. Mar 10, 2025 · The Best Climbing Shoes of 2025 From trad climbing to pockets to bouldering, the best climbing shoes just keep getting better. These would be pretty general purpose, <V5 indoor shoes. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. Nov 11, 2023 · Nothing beats climbing on real rock, but if you want to perform at your best, you're going to need the right kit for the job. Questions I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? Bouldering was traditionally used as crux training. While both require strength, endurance, and a good head for heights, they differ in terms of technique, equipment, and duration. In this review we look at the best shoes for bouldering — since shoes are the main driver of your performance when tackling that bouldering problem. 10 moccs), and an all-around performing all-day trad shoe good for a mix of crack and slab, like a TC pro TC pros or similar pretty much supplanted the moccs/mythos in Have a friend that is getting hooked on bouldering so he is contemplating some shoes to avoid them sweaty rentals. com Nov 11, 2023 · Two of the most popular types of climbing are bouldering and sport climbing. It's a tough choice but consider going for that $200 upgrade to start with. feiym dhn wjicl ylstics dui garu vbvi tbbyqnt osxe ttzc