Sloper wrist training reddit. Then gradually build up your exposure to them.

Sloper wrist training reddit body position, tension, mobility, etc. You can use it with the same sort of isometric protocols that you would use with a hangboard or tension block. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This usually helps with wrist pain, I also just do them for general training and to take pressure off my elbow (it helps a LOT with climbers elbow). Don't You need a combination of finger and wrist strength to control the hold/friction at just the right angle, and the right body tension/core to keep you under the hold in a way that you can make use of the best hand/wrist position. Anytime a route has a big sloper or anything that's not deep, my right wrist seems to pull out of its socket a bit and I can't finish the route! Nothing serious, as soon as I let go my wrist snaps back into socket, but I can't finish these routes and it's bugging me. This problem is solved with the Heavy Roller! Coming from the world of professional arm-lifting sports this form of training is tried and tested and targets the muscles involved with hard Feb 17, 2025 · Master the art of climbing slopers with these tips! Learn how to improve grip, body positioning, and technique to tackle even the most challenging slopers. Where you would see some strength gains is when training for sloper climbing, this is because the harder you can flex the wrist the more force you can apply down through your fingers as they smear on the hold. All these should be performed with light dumbells for high reps For bench specifically, wrist issues are often due to gripping the bar wrong. /r/bjj is for discussing BJJ training, techniques, news, competition, asking questions and getting advice. I'd like to create a compendium of I haven't tested my theory, but I think that deep slopers require a lot of wrist strength. I immediately came off, worried I had injured myself. I finally went to a ortho doctor and got diagnosed with de Quervain’s tenosynovitis and will probably need surgery in the future. Work your way up the grades, don't spend all day on one problem (hellooooo wrist issues), and start adding some reverse wrist curls to your antagonist days sooner than later. Do a quick test for me: grab a pen, which direction does your wrist go? Mar 8, 2022 · A basic method would be to hang on slopers for 30 seconds and then do 5 pullups. It's really slow, unfortunately But there are ways to train the wrist very effectively. It doesn't hurt, but feels like it shouldn't be happening. I climb as well and feel like sloper holds on the campus board, wrist wrench, and crack climbing has strengthened my wrist more than anything. I felt no pain, the snapping felt weird but not painful. A couple of months ago (6/2015) after topping out on a boulder problem in a gym i jumped off and landed on the pads and very slightly jacked up my wrist (suspected sprain). Aug 6, 2002 · I am having great difficulty of late going heavy on curls. Where possible, try to keep your hand cupped to the shape of the sloper but your wrist straight. I’m trying to level up my arm/hand strength and been looking at Lattice’s Heavy Roller. Neutral wrist positions such as crimps and normal climbing are fine. I just relistened to the Lattice Training Podcast Episode with Yves Gravelle. If it happens I will usually rest for a good while before attempting another sloper problem and usually my wrist will feel ok after that. Lately wrist training for slopers and compression have become all the rage. I get pain in my hand/wrist with slopers only on my right hand. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. More broadly, I'll second the recommendations for grip work and wrist roller. Could it be lack of warming up? 6B+/6C boulder is my level, roughly. Grip sport is moving away from using it in competition. I Basically you're going to want routes with easier sections with a slopey crux section. 4 sets of 10 reps. Since I don't engage the ulnar side of my wrist (lack of pinky during crimps) I never really developed ulnar side wrist stabilization and pinky strength. FWIW I don't train the grip and i'm still able to climb sloper problems. Sure you can squeeze or crimp down on a sloper but most of the time there is just an optimal sweet spot. g. Hurt your wrist? Here's are all the tips I have amassed that have helped me deal with WRIST SPRAINS. Normal and reverse wrist curls (or rolls) will help plant your wrist for open hand positions, and avoid the dreaded but common TFCC strain (where your wrist generally non-painfully feels like it popped out of place and is sore for a day or two) Other comments cover the rest, open hand positions like dragging translate to Improving Wrist Mobility on Slopers Are you experiencing wrist discomfort or instability on sloper holds while climbing? Wrist pain can be a persistent challenge that differs for a variety of climbing movements and can significantly hamper performance. ly/369BimT Training open hand grips for slopers and pinches can be tricky. The hang is wrist flexion, open hand strength, and some core tension to position correctly under the holds. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. Mar 31, 2020 · 1. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. This can take the pain Resistance wrist flexion. False grip isnt really the position your wrist is when climbing on slopers. Eccentric wrist-to-finger curls Start with your wrist in supination (palm up) and with a weight in your hand. But that BM Sloper The load for your forearms will be subideal for training gains. Apart from these podcasts there doesn't seem to be a great deal of information on wrist training. One to 16 votes, 17 comments. Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to improve overall wrist health for climbing. . However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. So take what I say with a grain of salt. Hi I was wondering if some people here might have a similar experience with slopery holds: whenever I climb relatively hard sloper boulders (especially compression) and my wrist is in a slightly flexed position, I get a very weird feeling in my wrists. The injury happened when I pulled on a sloper above and to the left of my body. I am guilty of picking up too many gadgets or spreading thin on training by making too complex of plans. Should I be worried? Is this as a result of lack in mobility? Or strength? I don't seem to loose grip, It seems that the wrist is engaged then extends slightly. Attempted Solutions: Wrist pushups, wrist curls, and rice bucket, but the issue still persists. Get used to finding the most comfortable to hang or create tension, especially, when setters gift you easy-to-rehearse moves. Example - the other day felt great on It stands to reason that training front levers and possibly other gymnastic strength exercises that develop this "displacement" of bodyweight could be beneficial in developing "sloper strength". Eliminating the wrist curl forces pretty much all the weight onto the FDS and FDP which are the primary finger muscles for climbing. In it they discuss how training their wrists has increased their sloper strength dramatically. 3 reps is good for starters. The possible exception to this is if you want to train for slopers that make heavy use of your wrist (like in Font), in that case I'm not sure. Hang boarding obviously seems to work crimp strength more - how do I better my more open hand strength for negative slopers? What you do is reps switching hands. MembersOnline • eratosihminea ADMIN MOD 78 votes, 36 comments. Your wrists may be a week point - I have to do wrist exercises or they start hurting on slopers. It happens mostly (if not always) on my left wrist and it might've started happening more often after I had a big wrist pop after pulling on a fat pinch. It generally happens when I’m trying to pull up a bit and The Rolling Thunder doesn't roll once you have significant weight on it. These will be your extensor forearm muscles, which are not used much while climbing. What is causing failure? Climbing well on slopers is dependent on a lot of variables (body position, shoulder strength, wrist strength/stability, finger strength, core engagement). I’d consider trying to make my own but feel like sourcing similar Jul 7, 2022 · Wrist curls (static and dynamic) If your wrists are weak then you can never hope to be strong on slopers, so for many climbers, wrist curls are a great exercise. The latter might actually be more useful than the hang itself. Depends on the hold. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. Exercise examples would be supination / pronation, adduction / abduction and wrist curls. It may be decent for what you want. You can do wrist curls or another form of resistance training for flexion, but so long as you actually strengthen the wrist flexors, you’ll get more leverage out of slopers. Next, slowly lower the weight down first by extending at the wrist then start to open your hand as if the weight were to fall from your fingertips. I went to see a doctor and they said to take a few weeks off and return to climbing after. I cover everything from the physical therapy to the emotional depression to help you get through this, including mobility and alignment tips so it won't happen again hopefully! : r/Fitness Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity r/Fitness r/Fitness I'm fine with doing pull ups and can do a one arm hang just fine, but every time I do a sloper it feels like I'm pulling my wrist apart. Doing a bunch of general fitness stuff isn't bad but it's not gonna help your climbing if it's not what's holding you back. Only happens on my left wrist, I am right handed. Besides training open hand strength does anyone have any advice on training sloper strength? I have incorporated slopers into hangboard cycles in the past but it is very friction dependent/skin condition dependent so the workouts tend to vary greatly. I find making replica holds, especially for sloper problems helps alot. So how do I train for this? Reddit's rock climbing training community. If the wrist continues to pop or feel weak, then you might need to avoid sloper problems entirely for a few weeks while your wrists heal. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. You are trying to do a workout (on the wrist) just to be able to do your hangboard routine after 10 months of climbing? Rice bucket and reverse wrist curl etc. I have seen a huge improvement in sloper performance and less pain just by chilling on the couch every day with a 5 lb dumbell doing wrist rotations and curls with my palm facing up and down. ) - training sloper problems on the wall To hold on to a sloper you want to concentrate on digging your finger tips into the hold. I found warming up specifically for/with slopers to be helpful. Incorporate exercises like wrist and pull-ups into your training routine to boost your overall strength and power. This usually puts a lot of emphasis on the wrists, and really makes it If you want the train your wrist strength off the wall, the wrist wrench or related tools is a popular way to increase your wrist flexion strength in a sloper-relevant way. Feb 10, 2024 · To build strength specifically for slopers, practice open-handed grips on hangboards and sloper holds at the gym. Experiment with hand position. com Wrist strengthening is tough because you're just strengthening bones and connective tissue. Fully flex your wrist. I love slopers, there is nothing better then some granite or sandstone sloper problems. Sep 15, 2023 · Why train your wrist strength? Increased wrist strength improves stability whilst climbing and typically decreases the amount of friction required to maintain contact with less positive holds and surfaces. 20 years old, been climbing for 5 years. Shown is the Metolius Wood Grips Deluxe II, an all-around wooden board with two sizes of slopers. Do you have any video of you climbing on slopers? Had this and solved it this year; add wrist curls and reverse wrist curls (and I added reverse curls - eg bicep curl with palm facing down) to your warm up (low weight high rep) and/or your strength and conditioning routine (say for 3 sets of 5-10 at an rpe of 7, increasing gradually over a five week period) Has added enormous stability to my sloper strength. Hope it helps! I started to develop wrist pain from sloppers and other weird moves when i first starting climbing 5-6 years ago. But slopers also don't roll, heh. Reddit's rock climbing training community. You could use the standard, open-handed grip as you would for the full-hand sloper or the sloper pinch. Some of them require a lot of wrist flexion and you have to apply force all the way to the finger tips. I've done all the antagonist training (wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, rubber band finger extensions), and all the strengthening exercises (rice bucket workouts), plus all extensor and flexor stretches suggested by my physiotherapist. A discussion of sloper strength begins at 10:15 on this training video. These things make it somewhat manageable, but it has never gone away. It can require a lot of wrist strength. Then gradually build up your exposure to them. I once had my lunate pop out of place when pulling on a sloper. Real sloperS are much more varying and the key is body position nevertheless. Remember to grab a hold/sloper within your strength level. It looks like you have no training on things you're bad at so that makes zero sense. I've considered doing modified wrist pushups and curls in a more "false grip" position, but it's awkward and I haven't done it long enough to see if it works. Despite me taking time off to let it “heal” throughout the years it always comes back. My "resting hand" position for both hands is quite different (right hand is bent quite sidways). all have their place (mostly for rehab in my mind but whatever) but as long as you don't feel the sensation while doing normal sloper problems you shouldn't bother. Slap your entire palm onto the hold. I developed a wrist injury from training that made it painful and difficult to continue. Dedicated to increasing all our… I know people tape their writs for climbing for more stability but I just don’t get what moves require that much stability on the wrists. Also, I dont really understand how to overload the false grip. Can can anyone recommend some exercises that target sloper strength? Any insight or advice is much appreciated. I do not do the wrist curls when I do them. Hate slopers in climbing? Target the forearm flexors and stabilising muscles of the wrist with our Sloper Training Bundle. The finger muscles didn't actively do that, the wrist motion did. The gym that I climb at does not have many sloper problems to work on and slopers are a weakness of mine. Pull more with your large muscles (back, shoulders, biceps) and less with your forearms when pulling on slopers. Im not taking anything at the moment and the only As I got heavily into bouldering the past five years, one constant issue I've had is my left wrist popping and hurting while pulling (usually semi-open palmed) on sloper. Its as if my wrist seperates slightly from my arm and it feels like an almost-injury everytime this happens, which is every time I climb on Totally. It only seems to happen on slopers. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually I'm pretty convinced sloper training is just a matter of doing wrist isometrics in slight flexion. See full list on climbing. Yves said something along the lines of "after training wrist wrench I saw massive transfer onto my sloper strength". 20mm is what I usually prefer to reduce dry fires on really heavy loads. Handstand, False Grips Over Head Squats etc. I would recommend seeing a ortho or physio doctor and start This is basically what I found on the internet these last couple weeks, but I would like to add or rectify my routine to increase my performance, strength, mobility and get rid of this wrist popping when I try to land on a sloper. I think wrist flexor training and hanging from sloper is more specific. However it can be hard to really target this form of training and get the intensity high enough to build high levels of Nov 23, 2022 · Sloper and wrist strength is essential for climbing and injury prevention. For specific strength training, wrist strength is the secret sauce. I literally use an old wooden broomstick I use weight clamps to attach This is why pocket training is better than the slopers on the hangboard for improving slopers Any weak links in the forearm in terms of hand/forearm positioning with the sloper and tension through the wrist. And then years later, it'll still happen if I pull on sloping holds. You would be better off getting a proper diagnosis for your wrist injury, learning what caused it, and getting the appropriate treatment. A lot of discussion has been around horizontal slopers but they come up a lot in sloper side-pulls and compression problems as well. If you want some FCR and FCU you can add the wrist curl, but that's just better done in isolation if you need that for specific grips like sloper wrist strength I get this but usually only because I haven't warmed up properly. Hi there, try looking up exercises to strengthen other muscles in the forearm. Today we built a wrist wrench! Slopers have always been a weakness of mine, so I am putting together a month block to work on slopers and compression. And i agree with what someone else thst said in that at v5, it's probably still your body position. Hello to the bouldering subreddit! As my title suggest, I’m looking for any tips/accounts/youtube videos that might give me some advice on how to better train for slopers, or any general technique training that might help me level up my bouldering experience. This will give better support to your wrist when bearing down on a sloper. Flexing your wrist too much under load is an injury risk. If I was gonna go for sloper training off the wall, I’d go with one of those before the balls. Didnt really feel the difference in crimps. So I took 3 weeks off and returned. I was wondering if there is any exersize I could do to strengthin my wrists so I can start adding heavier weights. I see a lot of takeover from drag and HC to sloper strength. I use homemade ones out of a block of wood and use either the 15mm or 20mm. I blame it on terrible computer mouse posture (small mouse + claw grip) for my entire life. I tried many different exercises to train and strengthen them with varying levels of success. Practice practice practice. Sometimes you want a flat palm with maximum friction, other times you're better off digging your fingers into a nice spot at the back. TLDR: it’d be more beneficial to train open hand strength than full crimp strength. On these specific problems, is there an angle between your hand and wrist, where your wrist juts out? On these particular problems, the sloper is only deep enough for the full length of all my fingers. I'm extremely skeptical that training your extensors will help, especially if you're using rice buckets. Wrist training is a great method for improving sloper specific strength used for climbing on large indoor holds and rock types, like sandstone. Signs and Symptoms (1,2) Some common signs and symptoms of a TFCC injury include: Pain on the pinky side of the wrist Pain that worsens with motion of the wrist (namely rotation or ulnar/radial deviation) Swelling at Jul 18, 2022 · I hurt my wrist on a sloper three months ago and it has improved a bit, but using an open-hand grip on the injured hand is still painful. The balls seem a little gimmicky. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. Try to keep your body (hips especially) very close to the wall, and experiment with positioning yourself to different sides. I mean wrist strength (handstands are good), biceps, and shoulders, core/ body tension all play a part, but as they say the best training is just to climb on your project. The ideal wrist angle to grab a barbell-sized object is about 20-25 degrees into wrist extension, usually about halfway between those numbers for most people. Shoulder compression. I’d really like to get better! Jan 1, 2025 · In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. Do wrist curls and wrist extensions 5-6 days a week. Don't want you to sprain your wrist whilst training. For slopers I like standard three finger drag and heavy wrist flexion isometrics. Straight barbell curls are impossible so I have had to stick with curl bar and dumbells but it seems Im feeling pain in my wrists and not hitting my bicep because if the agony im in. Thanks for the response! I’ll definitely be avoiding slopers for at least a week or two. Join me and climbing coach Louis Parkinson (@CatalystClimbing ) for a coaching session focussed on improving your SLOPERS. Best of luck man! Reply reply meanMrKetchup • I have done a lot of wrist training during the last year and significantly improved sloper, compression and pinch strength. I didn't know what was up. gripping a hold). The easiest way is to take a light weight and flex your wrist up, down and sideways. I was wondering, does this happen to anybody else and do you find any type of training prevents it? This is because there are different muscle groups involved in wrist flexion (wrist roller training) vs finger flexion (ie. Try to seat the bar closer to the base of your palm, directly over your wrist. In this slopers 101 session, Louis I do a lot of bouldering and I've been running into some issues. Pinch blocks or pinching free weights is an easy way to train. You can look up wrist rehab exercises and TFCC injuries for ideas (even though you are not actually injured, preventative PT is the best kind of PT). Any tips? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add Extension injuries may also occur via mantling or stemming, but can also be caused by moves that extend the wrist—like pulling into a gaston or on a sloper with wrist extended. Another option would be to wrap the hold with the backside of your hand and engage your wrist and your forearm. This has the bonus of also training your edge strength as well, so is likely superior. If there is room for the hand, people who crimp harder than they can hold open hand will often resort to crimping the best part of the sloper. You should count to at least 5 full seconds during this motion. If it's up in your fingers, it tends to torque the wrist back. Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu (BJJ) is a martial art that focuses on grappling and ground fighting. As much skin contact as possible. Armwrestling inspired wrist training vs isometric holds for sloper strength Hi all, I'm starting a new training phase and I'm incorporating some wrist training for sloper/compression strength. The standard style wrist wrench is loaded by winding straps around the handle, which puts a huge amount of torque on the it. Wrist curls and reverse wrist curls are staples But you will need a lever of some kind to effectively train the other 4 movements of the wrist. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. It hurt during extension for a week until my PT pulled some traction on my wrist and popped it back into place. As I started the climb, I went from a sloper to a pinch and felt a weird "snapping" sensation in my left hand (which is on the sloper), and then almost like a vibration in the muscle below the thumb (in the "meat" of the hand). In part two of our Blokheldemore Sloper training Advice on getting better at climbing slopey (indoor) problems? My crimp strength is pretty solid, but I definitely see a solid 2 V grade difference in what crimpy vs sloper problems I can boulder. So the middle of the finger's ROM, from the muscle's perspective, changes based on the angle of your wrist. Its more of a technique rather than an exercise you could overload, unless you are trying to do weighed pullups with false grip. Anyone using this and find it helpful? Seems like it would apply to climbing wrist strength a little better than wrist curls. He suggests the rolling thunder/wrist wrench for training slopers. Biomechanics: Your wrist is typically slightly forward flexed (or neutral) when you are on a sloper. I don't train the slopers, but Im willing to bet I could get pretty strong for them by cupping kettlebells or something similar. Look into sloper/wrist flexor training and footwork drills/"hard" climbing that requires more posterior chain tension and hard foot moves. MembersOnline • satacat ADMIN MOD Just don't do it. 168K subscribers in the climbharder community. Get some training gear deals: http://bit. I can climb pretty well now but every time i hit an open handed sloper or am in pushup position Reddit's rock climbing training community. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. You can even buy some atomik bombs for at-home training if you need some extra homework. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Wrist flexion training, is being suggested by some if you look hard enough. Probably because I used the 2 3/8 inch and 2 7/8" on the single hand napalm nightmare Puts a crazy strain on the wrist and thumb that i can't really fight and compensate the way I do with the nn. For sloper strength, the most important orientation is with the palms facing up, but you can also do palms down and to the side to develop a broader range of strength. I've been preaching the no hang blocks for rehab for a while now as well as for strength training! one of the best rehab devices you can own. It's a similar sensation to cracking knuckles, but in the wrist. Sloper and wrist strength is essential for climbing and injury prevention. Put some gentle weight on it and gradually increase it. Oct 4, 2022 · By training the muscles that act directly on our wrist, we can build up the joint's dynamic support that we need for slopers. My palm is just rounding the vertical face. I think this is mainly sparked by two podcast guests: Yves Gravelle and Dan Varian. For training your wrists in general you should think about strengthening every position your wrist can take with a movement that requires that position, e. MembersOnline • TastyBratwurst ADMIN MOD General consensus seems to be that sloper strength is trained by training open handing edges. Reply reply MKSasu • Do reverse wrist curls to strengthen the wrist stabilizer muscles. Believe it or not, your shoulders play a role in helping you hold slopers through a compression sort of motion. Pain all but vanished! For getting the finger strength for slopers - Pockets are best from my experimentation of the vast majority of methods For getting everything else (e. If you're training finger strength in a half crimp you're likely effectively training the fingers for sloper work. Apr 13, 2005 · I have really weak wrists and when I do strait bar curls, or forearm exersizes my wrists sometimes pop out of joint. You hang with your left hand for a second or two, then switch to hanging with your right. That being said slopers are my favorite type of hold. I have a theory that people with wrist pain and/or TFCC (myself included) crimp incorrectly. However it can be hard to really target this form of training and get the intensity high enough to build high levels of recruitment. qsqj nbnhxz mmrc nirq msrpgnp buwtv nybv ppeqb cnqjia chlj habmrmz ahe zydhz hck sndyb