Best climbing sling strength reddit. Most grip trainers are semi useless.

Best climbing sling strength reddit for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Keep in mind that the strength rating for these cords are for a single strand. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be adjusted 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Working Carabiners Here's some breaking strength numbers: Sling with no knots: 22kN Doubled up sling: ~44kN Tying a knot in a sling: ~11kN Tying a knot in a doubled-up sling: ~22kN WAY more than enough for an anchor, especially if someone is just TRing on it. Don't do that. Generally with knots (this goes for ropes, slings and accesorry cord) every turn reduces the strength of the knot. What I would prefer seeing is how this test occurs with a dynamic rope in the system. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. Quickdraws are an essential piece of climbing gear for clipping bolts on sport climbs, and also serve many purposes for traditional or multi-pitch climbing, such as This means that it took at least 70 climbing days for the slings to decrease in strength by 16%. If your other option is a water knot tied sling, that has 60% strength. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. 12 votes, 51 comments. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Reddit's rock climbing training community. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. A lot of the issues with the other thread was people calling things the wrong fucking thing and providing information that was both incorrect and confusing. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. Best Use Cases: Tubular webbing is often used in situations where flexibility and knot-tying capabilities are important, such as in rock climbing where knots need to be easily adjustable and retrievable. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Nov 1, 2024 · Searching for the best quickdraws for climbing? Our expert climbers have put over 35 different quickdraws to the test over the past 12 years, and this review features 14 of the best and most popular options you can purchase today. If you make an equalized three point anchor, very common in trad climbing, then your master point actually has three strands of cord. Safe working load is usually significantly lower, around 1/5th of the breaking strength. it's dangerous. Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. 319K subscribers in the ar15 community. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. But the hitch reduced the strength of the sling up to 50% and each overhand by 40% (from what i found on the www). Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. See full list on outdoorgearlab. 26 votes, 28 comments. Metrics like overall weight, ease of clipping, gate opening, and sling width all came into consideration when choosing the best quickdraws for respective applications. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. If you use two similar slings it's can be up to 80% strength. To answer your question: I think you take a 20% hit in strength even with a perfectly tied water knot. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. Jul 24, 2025 · Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you determine the best carabiner for your needs. Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? 12 votes, 48 comments. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD /r/ManyBaggers is for folks who like all things that are bags. All of your So it's not ridiculous deadly. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. Mammut has made a new sling that's many times stronger and more abrasion-proof by making it out of twisted Dyneema wrapped in a sheath, with no connection seam Yep, stitching isn't as strong but as a sling daisy is full strength anyway. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. Also doubles as a good rappel extension and for slinging natural pro. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the 305 votes, 96 comments. MYTH: tying knots in dynex/BD slings should NEVER be done?? My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Welcome to r/AR15! Share you builds, ask relevant questions, play nice etc. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. How much do you get out each year? How abrasive is the rock you climb on? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. And yes we are scared of falling. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. trueBecause everybody always throws in the name you would expect, here's something else: rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… A rethreaded is what you tie in to your harness, although in your case you're using an additional rope (as others pointed out, this can be super dangerous) A Flemish bend is the correct way to join two ropes in this instance. In short the conclusion was, train isometrically (fingerboard) rather than with grip trainers if you want to climb better. Feb 8, 2025 · Climbers seeking the best climbing slings should pay attention to the sling’s strength rating, abrasion resistance, and weight, as these factors can significantly influence their performance and reliability in critical situations. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. The home of Climbing on reddit. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. The best personal anchor will always be Unsure of how to choose carabiners in terms of weight bearing capabilities. The steeper the angle of the turn, the higher the decrease of strength. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. It's also commonly used in sling configurations for climbing protection. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. 1. Keep slack out of your static anchors. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. My issue is that i like to use the sling as follow : girth hitch to my harness and 2 overhand knots at like 1/3 and 2/3. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Learn how to choose the type you need. Hey /r/climbing what quickdraws should I start with? I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Do you guys think this is safe? REI said it can be used for anchors. e. Hey friends, My names Kyle. Apr 24, 2025 · As we all know, the right gear can make or break an epic day on the crag, and climbing slings are no exception! I’ve had my fair share of adventures (and misadventures) with slings over the years, and today I’m excited to share three of my favorites that have become trusty companions on my climbs. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Then you can factor in the strength reduction that the knot introduces into your anchor. Check out the latest deals on climbing hardware here. That said, SWL isn't really referred to in climbing contexts because it's not very relevant. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering of course bd, petzl Oct 13, 2020 · So how do you choose the right drawn given how man models are out there on the climbing store gear walls of the world? Focus on your main type of climbing. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). I’ve worked full time as a sports performance coach for endurance and mountain athletes for the last 17 years. Aug 1, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing quickdraws of 2025, with the best sport, trad, and ultralight quickdraws from Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, Metolius, and more. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag 12 votes, 46 comments. 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Those strengths add together. If like bags of any kind this sub is for you! If you have lots of backpacks, purses, wallets, etc and are ashamed to admit it this sub is for you! If like you to constantly talk about bag designs then this sub is for you! Mar 3, 2023 · After narrowing down categories, we researched and tested to find the best quickdraw for every application. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • Maybe gotta sling a couple boulders and build into an anchor, or sling one really big Boulder, or maybe there’s just a tree! If I’m on bolts I generally will not do the sliding-x but rather tie a know to have a solid master point. I always keep one of these for abbing as they're nice and easy to undo after being weighted. I’ve been reading about how girth hitches weaken slings, and the documentation that comes with my slings specifically says that 2 girth hitches will reduce strength to 11KN. I specialize in programming strength plans for ultra runners, alpine climbers and indoor climbers. trueI'd be ready to do all three if I were you. Nov 19, 2025 · We tested all the best climbing cams available in 2025 and, like all rock climbing gear, we found that the best piece of gear for you will. Most grip trainers are semi useless. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when This would result in increased muscle mass, which sounds great, but for a climber isometric strength gained from increased connective tissue throughout the forearm is preferable, which is gained from static holds. Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. Personally I’m an ultra runner, alpine soloist and do a lot of bouldering. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I get it. The biggest advantage is that they are super easy to unknot once weighted. com Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. Easy to understand. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Belay Carabiners. Cordelette for any self rescue scenario, load release MMO hitch, plus it’s a prussik and foot loop combo in itself. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. Additionally, if you have at least a 2 point equalized anchor, your partner's fall would need to generate twice the breaking strength of sling for it to fail. Really depends on the scenario. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. And yes I do remember being above the static anchor few times when setting up a top rope (I believe that's the most common case of climber being anchored with sling above the static anchor). Straightforward. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Even if that relationship is linear (doubtful), that means you have minimum 210 climbing days before approaching 50% strength, based on exposure. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. DIY reslinging cams? Heyo! I've got some older cams I'd like reslung, is there any reason not to just cut the existing sling and tie on some new webbing with a water knot? I'm only asking because the webbing I have one and is a bit wider then the original sling, so it doesn't fit as nicely. The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. If you like working sport routes, or if you are trad climber, select draws with wider, more abrasion resistant slings and heavier-duty carabiners. What is your favourite sling for trad anchors? I'm a fan of the Edelrid aramid core slings. If you If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. 252 votes, 98 comments.